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Sunday, July 16, 2017

Xochimilco Part II - Museo Dolores Olmeda

The second part of my day in Xochilmilco was visiting the Museo Dolores Olmeda.  For the first part, taking a gondola on the canals, see Part I.

The backstory to this visit is that my hostel in Coyoacán is literally two blocks from the Museo Frida Khalo, the “Casa Azul” where the famous painter lived and died.  I have tried several times to get in, but each time I went the line was at least a block long.


In Xochimilco, however, is a 16th-centurty hacienda that was home to Dolores Olmeda, a wealthy socialite, patron of the arts, and major collector of works by both Frida Khalo and Diego Rivera.  After our morning on the canals, Adrian and Sarah and I went to take it in.  It was something of a bizarre scene.

Statue of Dolores Olmeda on the museum grounds

The first oddity was the by now usual effect in which you squeeze through Mexico City’s loud, crowded, dirty urban streets, pass through some sort of gate, and are transported into an aristocratic otherworld of expansive lawns, cypress trees, and, at the end of a long promenade, a full-fledged castle that was someone’s private home.  It was absolutely gorgeous.



On a beautiful afternoon like we had, it was almost a shame to go indoors into the museum.  But of course we did.  The first rooms you enter are for the Frida Khalo works.  I’ve never been that much of a fan of Frida’s work; certainly I stand outside the enormous cult that has arisen around, mainly, her body of self-portraits; nevertheless, I found the pieces they had quite powerful, including many portraits she did of other people.  I declined to pay the fee to take photos, but I snuck one in of perhaps the most cult-like exhibit: her clothes.


It was a little difficult being in the Frida rooms, not so much from the visual, textual, and symbolic evocations of the painter’s constant pain (she was badly injured in a traffic accident at age 18), though indeed that had its sorrowing effect, as from the mundane interference of the paintings’ proximity sensors, which seemed to be tuned to a sensitivity matching Frida’s own and which every few seconds emitted a series of four loud, piercing shrieks.  I felt sorry for the guards who had to live with that all day long.

The museum contained also—in fact was in the main dedicated to—Diego Rivera’s works, small and (very) large, interspersed with pieces from his enormous collection of pre-columbian art.  We walked through several rooms of these, and the interspersing itself formed an oddity; one must really, I think, contemplate either an Aztec statutette or a huge mural depicting a socialist allegory of New York City; to attempt both at once is to rather short-circuit the museum-going brain.  Did I really then see, for an instant, a whole room storing huge cloth-and-plaster Day-of-the-Dead figures with skeleton heads?  My favorite room, actually, was the single quiet one devoted to Pablo O’Higgins drawings; I wish I had cheated on another photo here, but it was small, brightly-lit, and guarded.

But it was back outdoors, with my camera reset for sunlight, that the museum’s bizarre aspects were most famously in evidence.  Patroness Olmeda loved (among many things) both peacocks and a breed of black hairless dog called a Xoloiztcuintle, and she provided for their continued breeding in her will, with the result that the lovely grounds and gardens of the hacienda are idiosyncratically filled with both species.



The total combination is effective, I thought, as I had a drink with Adrian in an Art Nouveau pavilion café on the estate, in summoning up the charged, elevated eclecticism of the 1920s art-world zietgeist.  While my tastes in painting might prefer a Bougueraeu to a Khalo, my romantic Muse finds itself quite at home stepping between peacocks in a 16th-century castle repurposed to the patronage of left-wing socialist art in a swirling milieu of sexual pecadillos, international fame, and notorious wealth. 

Not a bad world to find behind the gate.

The museum cafe

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