The last two days have been what I thought the first would
be: pure Interstate days. There was no
way around it. Starting in Seattle,
there’s simply a lot of USA to get through before I cross the border and what I
think of as the real trip begins. And part
of the USA is going to be epochal; my path will take me past Bryce Canyon, Zion
National Park, Horseshoe Bend and the far end of the Grand Canyon. But even to get to these, one has to start by
eating miles.
It’s no fun in a Miata.
I’m eating lunch in a Village Inn in Ogden Utah and I’m not
in a mood to pull punches. American Interstate
driving Is an experience largely defined by boredom. It’s lonely, it’s alienating, it’s
enervating. It goes on all day and you
feel you’re getting nowhere. When the jockeying
blocks of high-speed metal around you pull into the same rest stop and resolve
themselves into people, their aspect is not improved. As almost the opening round of my trip, this
stint of USA highway travel is setting the wrong tone, and I can only vow to get
it over with as quickly as possible and back to smaller roads.
As highways go, I-84 through Oregon and Idaho is not
unscenic. I’ve driven it before. Long plains of green and russet grasses roll far
away to low blue mountains in the distance.
But Interstate scenery is dioramic: at 70 mph it’s behind glass, dead,
untouchable, unsmellable, immobile even in its slow changes. And it’s worse in a Miata.
The Miata’s not made for highway driving and my little car
resents it as much as I do. The motor
buzzes and strains at 70 while the other cars coast effortlessly by at 80. Though it’s a sunny day I keep the top up at
this speed, both for aerodynamics and to prevent the stuff in my front seat from
blowing all over Idaho. Even so, it’s
too loud in the cabin. I worry about my visibility;
out here my main companions are the big trucks, and I feel like a squirrel who’s
stumbled into a dance of elephants. Driving
a Miata on the Interstate is the one time in life when I could wish for a giant
SUV.
A strange night last night, too.
After my tent-camping night I opted for a hostel—not because
I disliked camping, but for the social life.
At the campsite the rain had kept me in my tent, and I was in the mood
for people. I picked out a Boise hostel
by its name—“Hostel Boise”—only to find it a misnomer as it was out in the wide, flat farmlands
of Nampa. It was a lovely place, and
very budget-friendly, a sweet farmhouse with a full kitchen, living room and bathroom. But I wasn’t too surprised to find myself the
only guest. Oh, well. That, however, was for the best, as I wound
up having, out of nowhere, the worst bloody nose of my life, to be followed
shortly by an email from Washington State Unemployment doubting my job search
and hinting that they might want their money back. At 2:00 am I emailed them back the relevant
portions of my job-hunt log. (See? It
was good there was no one else in the room.)
Village Inn pie completed, coffee drunk (they put the whole
pot on your table: thumbs up), and this concludes my Interstate Report. Now to send it up on their free wi-fi and
gird myself for more I-84 East.
Don't disparage the vastness, the repetitive landscape, because it's always changing. If you're losing sight of the moment pull off the highway. Breathe the air. The spot is unique, even if it's similar. See the beauty. Breathe. Then drive on to that next moment. Around every corner, a new view. Love you, Matt. Keep rolling.
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